The Food Lover's Guide to Mexico City. In Mexico City, the Distrito Federal (or simply “DF”) of Mexico, food thrives everywhere. You can’t walk down the street without inhaling the smell of hand- patted tortillas toasting over wood fires or spying dribbles of salsas around the corner.

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With over 2. 0 million residents sprawling over enough territory to make Los Angeles look like a small town, Mexico City is frenetic, dizzying, inexhaustible. You could spend a lifetime exploring and not cover half of the city’s delights. But here is a guide to get you started from must- visit avant garde cuisine and, of course, the tacos.

One thing to keep in mind in Mexico City is that comida, “food,” also refers to lunch, the largest meal of the day, served between 1 and 4 p. It’s a serious, lengthy event, often lubricated with cerveza and tequila. Those who generally treat dinner as their core meal would do well to restructure their circadian rhythms. Dinner, or cena, is often lighter—mezcal, a tamale or two—and it doesn’t happen until 1. Additionally, it’s a good idea to look up hours before venturing out; there is no disappointment like traveling to a far corner of the city only to find out your destination closed at 5 p. Where to Eat. Cantina El Sella. Though everything is good at this cantina, it's the chamorro, a bone- in pork shank braised in its own fat, that you'll find on every table.

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Meltingly tender meat is flanked by piquant habeñero salsa, minced onion and cilantro, and hot corn tortillas to make your own tacos. Add an order of guacamole, fried parsley, and a barely- set eggy tortilla espanola and while away the hours. Don’t miss the flaming ate con queso, either: postage stamp sized pieces of cheese and quince paste doused in Amaretto and set on fire, tableside. Eje 2. A Sur 2. 10 (at Dr. Balmis), Colonia Doctores(5.

Nicos. Nicos lies outside of the common tourist circuit, and it’s where Mexican families dine together on Saturdays and where chefs go on their days off (take note: it's closed Sunday). Service is warm, not stuffy, in a comfortable dining room with a fully stocked mezcal bar. Their nimble kitchen, under the charge of Gerardo Vázquez Lugo, serves traditional but always interesting Mexican food more upscale than street far but more casual than the fancy spots. The menu changes with the seasons, which means mole in December, escamoles (ant eggs sauteed in butter) during specific months, and chiles en nogada at peak walnut season.

Don’t miss the pan de elote con rompope, a rich corn custard with eggnog sauce. Nicos. Avenida Cuitláhuac 3.

Colonia Clavería(5. El Hidalgense. Only open Friday through Sunday, El Hidalgense serves some of the city’s finest barbacoa, trucked in all the way from the neighboring state of Hidalgo where barbacoa reigns. The meat is wrapped in fragrant maguey leaves and steam- roasted over wood fire packed into underground pits. The meat is rendered rich and supple, served with blue corn tortillas, limes, radish, onions, herbs, avocado and three salsas, for DIY tacos. Beyond the braised meat there are lots of classic treats to try—pulque, insect dishes, and the house brand of mezcal. El Hidalgense. Campeche 1.

Colonia Roma(5. 5) 5. El Vilsito. By day, El Vilsito is an auto repair shop where mechanics change oil and tinker with loose brakes. By night, it’s a bumping taqueria with waiters buzzing around and crowds angling for their attention. It’s a pleasure to watch the taqueros handle the huge spits of tacos al pastor, shaving off meat and slivers of pineapple. Besides the al pastor, there’s grilled steak, bistocino (steak with bacon and onions), and gringas, flour tortillas clobbered with cheese and pork al pastor, anointed with green salsa from molcajetes big enough to bathe in. Service is faster than a chop shop.

El Vilsito. Petén 2. Av. Universidad), Colonia Navarte(5. Super Tacos Chupacabra. What started as a popular nighttime taco street cart serving bistec, longaniza, al pastor, and campechano (that’s a mix of all three) has now moved to a more permanent brick and mortar location under a highway overpass.

In addition to the pitch- perfect tacos, there is a long bar of free condiments to customize your order: pinto beans, grilled onions, sliced nopales (cactus), crumbled potato, slivered onions marinated with habeñero, and more than a few salsas. Pro move: Bring your own spoon to scoop up any meat that threatens to spill out of your taco.

Super Tacos Chupacabra. Av. Mexico- Coyoacan Sn Local 1, Colonia Coyoacan. Pujol. Enrique Olvera's Pujol continues to live up to the mounting hype as, bar none, the most creative, clever, and well- executed take on contemporary high- cuisine Mexican cuisine. If you're going to visit one high- end restaurant in Mexico City, this is it. From the brooding one- year- aged mole madre to mini corn cobs with coffee mayo, peppered with ground chicatana ants to masterful desserts to the tortillas that smell like buttered popcorn, each dish will leave you giddy. At 1,3. 75 pesos (about $8.

US), it’s still the most affordable fine- dining experience in the Western hemisphere. Pujol. Francisco Petrarca 2. Colonia Polanco(5.

Where to Drink. La Mascota. Servers assume that you will be having at least three drinks at La Mascota, which is why they set you with a paper placemat and cutlery when you sit down. Three’s the minimum to be plied with botanas—free snacks of the day which often amount to a real meal, maybe chicken consomme followed by beef braised in guajillo sauce or snails in squid ink. Sip tequila chased with sangrita, a shot of spicy sweet tomato juice and watch the staff shift around the heavy wooden tables to accommodate large groups. The jukebox goes all the way to 1. La Mascota. Mesones 2.

Colonia Centro Historico(5. Watch Death Wish II HD 1080P. Bósforo. On a slim street in Centro, behind a velvet curtain, hides one of the best mezcalerias in town. Great music, a colorful crowd, in a raw, minimalist space with an energy that keep things interesting. Though Oaxaca is known as the spiritual heart of the mezcal movement, there are dozens of other mezcals, from San Luis Potosi, Guerrero, Jalisco, and Puebla to sample. The staff is knowledge and patient and can help steer you towards something you’ll like.

They are about to open another location next door that will be more focused on food; but of course, there will always mezcal. Bósforo. Luis Moya 3. Colonia Centro Historico(5. Maison Artemisia. The second floor of Maison Artemisia transports you a corner of late 1.